Posted by | Under Nikon Lenses
Friday Jan 14, 2011
Good photography, whether it’s using digital or conventional film, relies on a number of basic things – a camera body, a lens and you! All three of these things can be top quality or just plain average. Which would you prefer?
One of the things I’ve preached to my photography students over the years, especially the techno-files, is that yes the camera body is important, and never more so than in this day and age of CCD chips and many mega-megapixels, but even more important than the body is the lens or lenses you put on it.
I cannot emphasize enough how crucial good lenses, and unfortunately expensive lenses, are but there is no substitute for good glass and good construction.
And when it comes to Macro/Micro Photography add another 20% to the crucial factor. Do yourself a favor if close-up photography is your thing, buy yourself a brand name, 1:1 Macro lens. Both Canon and Nikon include 1:1 Macros in their stables, they’re not cheap, but they’re absolutely worth it.
The latest Nikon 105 f2.8 Micro AFS lens is a great example of this quality. It has an incredibly shallow depth of field* when working close up which adds an edge to the creative effect. It can transform the mundane, average reality shot into an emotive art piece in an instant – experience this once, and you’ll keep coming back for more, and where needed it produces perfectly sharp, precise images as well.
Macro lenses are expensive but the quality of the lenses speak for themselves and long term the investment is worth it, especially when you consider the huge gain in creativity and enjoyment of using such a precise tool.
Remember one thing though when working really close-up, the shift in focus from in-focus to out-of-focus is so rapid at wide open apertures that it’s sometimes hard to be sure the point of focus or the subject you are focusing on is enough to hold the picture together creatively. If in doubt, shift your focal point to several positions on your subject and shoot 3, 4 or even a dozen shots.
One of the fantastic things about this digital revolution is that shooting many frames at a time on one subject has no inherent cost. Experiment! Try different apertures, bracket (taking more than one shot at a time at different exposures in order to get the best exposure), try with flash, try without flash …
The list of possibilities is endless. It’s worth shooting extravagantly in the beginning to find a look and feel that you like. Remember in focus or out focus, with movement and without, they all have merit. If you like crisp clean images, then I advise always using a tripod – the amount of camera shake you get is generally exaggerated the closer you get to the image. Furthermore, because focusing is so critical close up, a tripod is a really useful tool, it also slows you down a bit, allows time for reflection, a bit of time for pondering, weighing up options. Of course this doesn’t mean that your subject is necessarily going to stay still, but then you can’t have everything.
If you are like me, and you enjoy taking a lot of flower pictures you’ll know all about trying to keep flowers steady on a windy day! I’ve taken pictures in the past where the flower has almost completely left the frame by the time I took the picture. Frustrating and yet even then I’ve found that sometimes the effect of a flower moving out of frame is gorgeous… a bit blurry, a bit odd but cool nonetheless. Serendipity at its best.
*For those of you who are new to serious macro photography with a DSLR remember that the aperture of the lens is always set to its widest open position to make focusing easier and only shuts down to the aperture you selected when the shot is taken – hence the sometimes annoying difference you see between the final image and the image you see while focusing.
I want to get a used (read inexpensive) DSLR for my 14 year old girl. She has shown aptitude and responsibility with a borrowed camera. It would be nice to get into a product line that lends to upgrading – accumulate a few lenses and other accessories and eventually step-up to a more sophisticated body. But that’s not required. It would be equally desirable to just get a lens and body that are easy to resell once the commitment to photography has evolved, and then move into whatever makes sense at the time. A quick-take has led me to the Canon 20D. A newer camera, the Olympus E-520 came on my radar today as I perused used cameras at stores in downtown Osaka. With the weak US $, both the 20D and E-520 seem to be in the mid-to-upper $200 range before tax. Maybe a bit less a Nikon D50. Although I love the selection in Japan, I think I can do as well back in the U.S., and I’m leaving today. Plus I’m not informed well enough to make a purchase yet. All three of these bodies are available on eBay for less than $300 right now. So with that price range in mind, would you care to weigh-in on which would be the best choice for my situation. Other cameras? Thanks!
I have the 20D, and I love it. It is a great camera. The body is mostly magnesiusm, so it is stupid durable. The low light performance isn’t something to rave about, but that is understandable for a 7 year old camera. It takes both EF and EF-S lenses, so you can find a rather large selection of those on website like ebay and B&H.
Oh on a side note about the 20D, when you get it, if the shutter makes a really loud noise, don’t worry. The 20D has a rather loud, distinctive mirror slapping noise. Not sure why. The 10D and the 30D are relatively quiet, but the 20D sounds like a full on slap.
Nikon D70 SLR ideally suits Digital Infrared Photography because of the power that its settings deliver. Next I will show you the camera settings that I use in taking digital infrared photos, thus helping you to get best results out of the Nikon digital SLR. Firstly, you should get a tripod, which is necessary for taking perfect infrared photos, and then choose an infrared filter that you desire – I personally prefer Hoya R72. Then, spend a little time in planning the digital infrared photograph. This will help to eliminate some uncertainties that digital infrared photography brings, that can result in just a photo which is OK, instead of a WOW!! photo. Just like always, there isnt a right way in achieving the results. However, these steps brought me the most success, using the D70 until now.
Type of image: I prefer shooting in RAW mode for the digital infrared photography. Even though Nikons native format NEF is very versatile, it don’t stand up to the quality that RAW mode gives, so any imperfections can just be edited using software like Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro.
ISO: Very Good results could be achieved when increasing ISO settings, however, the best results I got were with ISO 200. Otherwise, noise is too great that is my opinion at least. Also, I do a good amount of post processing using Photoshop, so the noise becomes a problem while working at high magnifications. Keep in mind that, unlike the infrared film, where graininess is an important part for the feel and look of the image, the digital infrared noise or “grain” really degrades the image. However, if you need to add an effect of grainy film, you should do this using Photoshop, or using other package.
White Balance: From my experience, setting custom white balance represents a key in GOOD Digital Infrared Photography using Nikon d70. Using a filter which blocks most of the “regular” light, then the camera’s inner white balancing mechanism cant give you an accurate measurement for colour temperature of the environment. Because foliage reflects the IR light, by making it the brightest, the whitest part from your photo, in this case you will need to “calibrate” the D70 in order to let him know visible light green equals infrared white. A couple of ways exists for doing this.
First: The simplest method for white balance is opening the menu of the D70, then to use the control button to get to the setting for white balance, and then change this to +3 fluorescent. Because in infrared photography, most likely you will be shooting under bright sunlight using a “red” filter, if you add some false color correction, this gives your IR image more “punch.” Also, I have found that the incandescent setting also works.
Second: Other way to adjust the white balance for your digital infrared photography using Nikon D70 is by taking a photo to green grass in full sun at midday. But, try and photograph only the grass – no trees, no feet, no sky. Simply point the camera towards the grass by looking at it straight down, then click! After this, in the menu, you will set white balance using this photo. Hence, go to the menu, and select the white balance, then preset then use photo then select image and then use the control dial for navigating at the image with the grass. The menu should say now “this image > set.” And now you are ready for shooting infrared!
Alex Don http://www.articlesbase.com/digital-photography-articles/master-the-digital-infrared-photography-using-your-digital-slr-nikon-721904.html
Hold the flash button that’s located on your left index finger (next to the D50) as you hold the camera and the LCD display will show only the flash. Use your right thumb to dial the flash mode to red-eye, auto, or off. If you are in Auto exposure mode (or any of the pre-programmed modes like Portrait, Night, Kids, etc.), then turning off and on of the camera will reset the flash to auto.
If you do the same in P, S, A, or M exposure mode then the flash stays remembered after off and on.
Posted by | Under Nikon Lenses
Wednesday Dec 29, 2010
You set your mind and you’re ready to travel to South America, a
magical place of immense beauty where myth and legend continue
to walk hand in hand. I’ve traveled 18 months in South America
and can give you some tips on how to prepare yourself for an
unforgettable adventure.
Common Sense
We all hear the unpleasant stories and South America has a fame
of being dangerous. I traveled thousands of miles traversing
cities, jungles, islands and mountains. I survived 6 weeks in a
street child care center in the favelas of Salvador da BahÃa
(Brazil) and had the party of a lifetime during carnival.
Nothing, I repeat, nothing happened. Use your common sense.
Avoid badly lit streets at night and if your sixth sense is
giving you the “something is wrong” sign then take a taxi to
your destination.
Travel Guide Book
The first thing that you will need is a travel guide book. It
will be your best companion in your search for adventure. I can
highly recommend Lonely Planet´s South America on a Shoestring
to get you started. The book covers all you need to know to get
the most out of your trip and is ideal to plan your journey
ahead. I’ve used the guide extensively during my 18 month
adventure. They offer excellent separate travel guides of all
the countries (besides using the Lonely Planet Shoestring I’ve
used their separate travel guides of Peru and Brazil). Their
guides are the most popular among backpackers.
Other popular guides are The Rough Guide to South America and
the South American Handbook. Ideal, but not practical because
you want to travel light, would be to enjoy the adventure with a
Lonely Planet and either the Rough Guide or the Handbook.
Spanish and Brazilian Portuguese
The most rewarding thing for me was the fact that you can travel
in a huge continent like South America with only 2 languages.
Spanish and Portuguese. If you plan to travel just for a few
weeks you can invest in a Spanish and/or Brazilian Portuguese
Phrase Book. English is not widely spoken and even a basic
knowledge of Spanish and/or Portuguese makes the trip so much
more rewarding (they’re extremely willing to help you, so don’t
worry, be happy).
If on the other hand you’re planning to travel for a few months
I can highly recommend taking a language course. Ideal would be
in a school in South America (I took lessons in Quito, Ecuador,
and had a private teacher for $2.50/h).
Walking Shoes
South America’s nature is overwhelming. You’ll walk for many
hours day after day. It would be a shame to walk in the
footsteps of the Incas with blisters on your feet. My biggest
recommendation is to invest in high quality walking shoes with
Gore-Tex.
Health Vaccinations
Yellow Fever (if you plan to go to the Amazon Basin), Typhoid
(consists of two injections taken 4 weeks apart),
Diphtheria-Tetanus, Polio, Cholera (only when necessary),
Smallpox
Medical Kit:
Depending on what you plan to do you can include the following:
Antiseptic cream, aspirin, lomotil for diarrhea, antibiotics,
throat lozenges, ear and eye drops, antacid tablets, motion
sickness medication, alcohol swabs, water purifier, lip salve,
foot and groin powder, thermometer (in a case), surgical tape,
assorted sticky plasters, gauze, bandages, butterfly closures,
scissors and last but not least, first-aid booklet
Note: malaria pills are required in the amazon basin, please be
aware that those pills are very b and you should check with your
doctor before departure
Traveling Gear
Backpack:
Obviously a high quality backpack is a must. Choose the type
that has different compartments that can be opened separately.
Very handy if you need something quickly. Travel as light as
possible. A heavy backpack is destined to undermine your
traveling pleasure.
Clothing:
Depends on where you go. If it’s the mountains and the jungle,
get some quality clothing from home. If it’s the beach, buy your
t-shirts there (cheap).
Camping and Climbing Gear: You can rent camping and climbing
material in South America but the quality may be questionable.
Always check the material. Bring your own gear if possible. I
traveled 18 months with my own tent and various camping utensils.
Photography
Pictures are something personal. Some people just want some snap
shots, others want to publish in the National Geographic. All my
pictures were taken with a cheap Nikon F50 camera. Have a look
at some amazing photographs at www.travel-amaz
ing-southamerica.com.
I had two zoom lenses, a 35-80 mm. and a 70-210mm. I also
dragged a tripod and an excellent flash with me. I used FUJI
slides (100 ASA) but you definitely need 200 to 400 ASA if you
plan to go to the jungle. A polarize filter enhances the colours
tremendously on sunny days.
Conclusion
South America will embrace you with open arms. It’s nature,
people and history are overwhelming. With the right preparation
and set of mind you’re ready for an unforgettable adventure
Mark Van Overmeire http://www.articlesbase.com/travel-articles/travel-to-south-america-how-to-start-3393.html
Have a look at the reviews and sample photos here …
http://www.dpreview.com/
The D40 is a new, updated version of the D50, in a smaller body. The D40 has more features than the D50, but the D50 is also a very good camera, especially if you get a great lens for it. D50′s are selling very cheap now as well, so you could put the money you save towards a better lens.
Posted by | Under Nikon Lenses
Wednesday Dec 15, 2010
For any beginner photographer or a first time buyer of digital camera, choosing and buying a digital camera can become a task. There is so much that goes in to buying a digital camera for the first time. But you need not worry about that. For I provide you a step-by-step camera buying guide here:
Research: Talk to people
As a beginner you should keep certain things in your mind. First of all you should ask yourself, what are the features you need, what type of photos you are going to click with your new digital camera. There are a lot of features in a digital camera such as modes, zooms, lenses, flash, focus, viewfinder, resolution and timer. Decide which features you want in your camera. You can talk to your family and friends and other digital camera features to know their opinions on various camera features. This will help you jot down the basic expectations you owe from your new camera.
Price factor
Set a realistic budget for your first camera and look for cameras in that price range only. Prices of digital cameras have fallen greatly over the years. Still, a digital camera purchase is considered expensive to its 35mm counterpart’s purchase.
Next, gain a good knowledge about the models of cameras you are considering buying. Don’t be a fool by going all by your friend’s choice. Be a proud owner of a digital camera that suits your needs rather than someone else’s.
Satisfy your needs
As a beginner you should look for models that are easy to use and operate. Do not go for flashy models. They may not satisfy your needs.
Now decide on your printing needs. If most of your photos will be uploaded to a website or emailed, you will not need a lot of mega pixels in your camera. But if you are planning to make a lot of larger prints, you need a camera with a lot of mega pixels.
By narrowing down your options as per the needed camera features, you can decide which camera is best suited to you. Visit the stores and handle the devices personally. You should shop around for the best price. Pick up additional warranty if any. Take some great pictures.
Below are some of the great cameras for you:
1.Nikon coolpix 4100: It is a one easy to use camera. The camera is imaging wonder with 4.2 mega pixels and 3x optical zoom features to it.
2.Kodak Easyshare cx7330: This is a decent point and shoot camera that comes with 3.1 mega pixels and a combined 10x zoom features. The camera does not have much fancy features. But for a beginner, the camera is perhaps the best pick.
3.Canon Powershoot S410: This power shot camera from Canon is a four mega pixel camera. The camera is very stylish to operate and indeed offer all the basic functions of an average camera.
I am sure buying a digital camera is no longer a task for you.
Don’t get anything other than a Nikon dedicated flash. Only the Nikon flashes are designed to utilize their dslr/flash /lense i-TTL system.
The sb400 is a good start. Raises the level of the flash to cut back on red-eye and swivels vertically for bounce off the ceiling.
Personally, I think the sb600 is the best deal because it has modes where you can increase or decrease the flash level, bounce vertically or horizontally (great for times when you turn your DSLR sideways), and comes with a built-in diffuser for wider lenses.
The sb800 has all that and more capabilities, such as the ability to control a multiple flash system.
In summary:
SB400 = good basic upgrade
SB600 = versatile and powerful value
SB800 = powerful and flexible system
i have a Nikon D50 that can take 3 frames per second without flash. But is there a camera that can take pictures at fast rate with the flash. Because i have to wait 6 seconds everytime to charge the flash to take pictures…..
yes im using the built in flash
I would assume you are using the built-in flash? The SB-800 flash will shoot 5 frames per second with the Nikon D2X, but I’m not sure about the D50. I would guess it would work.
Nikon D40
Cannon Powershot S3 IS
Lumix DMC-TZ3
Powershot SD800 IS
(what else?)
those are some ive been reading about and researching. I want a camera that isnt so expensive like the D40, but can take amazing professional looking pictures (if u know what i mean)
I guess i want a DSLR or SLR or whatever its called. I just want a camera to take professional like quality pictures, like really nice pics such as these
http://flickr.com/cameras/nikon/d50/
(look at the pictures below)
I agree with MANTi65 on the technical side. The photos you linked to are stellar for reasons beyond the camera. For example the user Aremac is a very good photographer. If you really want to take pictures like those, your photography skills will need to match the quality of your camera.
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